Wakkerstroom Wonder - A Slackpackers Paradise

There’s a quirky twist to the phrase “untapped jewel” when it comes to Wakkerstroom. Ask a stranger in a New York pub where this charming village is, and they might just surprise you with an answer. But in Johannesburg, just a three-hour drive (or 298 km) away, most people have no idea it exists. Nestled on the border of Mpumalanga and Northern KwaZulu-Natal, Wakkerstroom remains blissfully under the radar compared to more commercialized weekend spots like Dullstroom or Clarens.

My first encounter with this little haven was back in 2019 on my honeymoon, where I was instantly enchanted. The village’s rustic charm, beautifully preserved Victorian homes, and quality yet budget-friendly restaurants made it unforgettable. Surrounded by rolling grassy landscapes and pristine wetlands, it’s a paradise for nature lovers. Boasting over 374 recorded bird species—including seven endemics like the Yellow Breasted Pipit and Rudd’s Lark—it also offers sanctuary to rare creatures like the Sungazer lizard, orchids, and endemic flora.

Fast forward five years, and not only am I still happily married, but my love affair with Wakkerstroom has deepened. At my husband’s wise urging, I’ve crafted a three-day slackpacking itinerary to showcase the best of Wakkerstroom’s life, landscapes, and colorful characters.

A Perfect Start to a Slackpacking Adventure

After two weeks of gloomy skies and relentless rain, the weather gods smiled upon me as I arrived in Wakkerstroom to finalize the routes. A brilliant blue sky opened up, setting the stage for what I knew would be a magical adventure with eleven like-minded women.

Our base for the slackpack was the idyllic Forellenhof Guest Farm, perched above lush green countryside. As the group trickled in, there was an excited buzz in the air. Some wandered off to snap photos of the farm's menagerie—strutting roosters, curious sheep, and cheeky cats—while others opted for a well-earned gin and tonic to recover from their harrowing battle with Johannesburg traffic.

The beauty of a slackpack is in its simplicity: our mental load is outsourced as all the logistics, meals, and planning are taken care of.

After a scrumptious farm-reared breakfast, we set off with walking sticks in hand, eager to explore the wetlands. Lucky Ngwenya, our BirdLife-qualified guide, was ready to reacquaint us with the avian wonders of the area on a gentle 13km walk.

Lucky’s connection with birds wasn’t always a part of his life. Growing up in Wakkerstroom, birds were once a simple source of food for him. But his life changed after a six-month internship with BirdLife South Africa, conveniently headquartered in his hometown. Today, with 20 years of guiding experience, he is a ‘fully-fledged’ (pun intended) expert, helping birders from around the globe tick off rare "lifers"—a term for first-time bird sightings.

For those of us who are mere weekend warriors in the birding world, Lucky’s enthusiasm and instinctive ability to detect the faintest tweet, chirp, or flutter turned an ordinary walk into the unfolding of a great detective story.

We crossed grassy paths Lucky fondly remembers from his childhood, roads they called ‘Bunu Manzi’—“wet bum roads”—for the splashes of mud they’d endure from passing cars during rainy seasons. As we walked, Lucky pointed out various birds: Rock Martins, Longclaws, Red Bishops, and Long-tailed Widows battling the breeze with his ridiculously enlarged breeding appendage. Alongside the birds, the grasslands were peppered with delicate flowers—Gerberas, Lobelias, and Euphorbias—creating a painterly landscape.

After a refreshing snack break atop a rocky koppie, we were treated to sweeping views of the Utaga River winding lazily through wetlands stamped with Natural Heritage status.

Our descent led us to the Clive Beck bird hide, where we paused for a picnic lunch. Here, Lucky revealed the "big guns": a 10kg telescope he had carried all morning. Through its lens, we marveled at the intricate details of Swamp Hens, Squacco Herons,Bitterns and other waterbirds lurking in the reeds. The close-up view made it easier to commit their unique patterns to memory.

The post-lunch walk took us along a series of boardwalks under a bridge, where we flushed out nesting swallows just back from their migrations. Crossing the historic Paul Kruger Bridge, built in 1904 and the site of the first Zionist baptisms, we paused to reflect on the blend of nature, history, and culture woven into the day's walk. Two heritage sites, vibrant wetlands, historical landmarks, and rolling grasslands alive with life.

After a much-needed nap under cozy covers, our group reconvened at one of Wakkerstroom’s most beloved dining spots: The Red Rooster. The evening unfolded with plates of delicately flavored Middle Eastern aubergine bakes, creamy prawn linguine, and wholesome panko-crumbed moussaka. Each dish, paired with crisp, refreshing wine, was a symphony of flavors. As forks clinked and conversation flowed, the table was soon alive with contented murmurs of “mmmm,” a collective appreciation for the meal’s excellence.

The food was so exceptional that it demanded more than just compliments; we had to meet the mastermind behind it. Enter Denise Schuil, the chef and owner—a French Canadian with an unmistakable twinkle in her eye. Like many of Wakkerstroom’s talented Inlangers (a term for people who move to the village from elsewhere), Denise discovered her true calling here seven years ago.

Her journey to The Red Rooster is nothing short of serendipitous. Originally from Johannesburg, she stumbled upon a failing pub, The Owl and Hare, and saw its potential. Under her care, it transformed into a family-friendly restaurant with a stellar 4.5-star rating on TripAdvisor.

The moment Denise walked into the pub all those years ago, fate seemed to greet her. A Canadian flag adorned one wall, emblazoned with the Latin motto, Inter Flumina et Montes—“Between Rivers and Mountains.” It was a message she couldn’t ignore, a sign that this place was meant to be her home and her canvas.

Day 2

Day two of our slackpack hike took us a little further afield, requiring a short 10 km drive to a nearby farm. Once again, we found ourselves captivated by the extent of the rolling folds of grassy mountains, their pristine beauty preserved by the gentle touch of free-range cattle and sheep farming rather than the heavy hand of tilling and plowing.

Our guide for the day was Rupert, a remarkably spry and energetic septuagenarian. A former businessman from Johannesburg, Rupert ‘opted in’ for the quiet charm of Wakkerstroom for his retirement. But, true to his “can-do” spirit, retirement for Rupert has been anything but idle. He’s poured his energy into volunteering with nearly every organization that keeps Wakkerstroom thriving. His efforts in bringing together the right people with the right skills and enthusiasm have been instrumental in making this slackpacking hike such a roaring success.

On this occasion, Rupert took the lead under the banner of the Wakkerstroom Walking Association—a casual group of locals who meet bi-weekly for invigorating walks in and around the village. With a small donation to the association, Rupert agreed to guide us to a nearby waterfall. Though there was a longer 15 km route on offer, the unanimous vote of the group was “less is more,” opting instead for the more manageable 8 km trail. This left plenty of time for a leisurely lunch later in the day.

The waterfall itself was magical, tucked away in a rocky amphitheater that provided the perfect natural seating for our weary backsides. It felt like our little secret—untouched, serene, and utterly ours for the moment.

A Culinary Adventure at Bindura Brewery

After the hike, we headed back into the village for a unique lunch at Bindura Brewery, the creation of yet another Wakkerstroom overachiever. Chemical engineer and pilot Paul Lessing—yes, that Paul, the nephew of legendary writer Doris Lessing—and his talented ceramist wife, Julia, have firmly planted their roots in the village. Together, they’ve built a thriving craft brewery, herb and iris farm, and a delightfully vibrant pottery studio.

Set against the backdrop of a picture-perfect English garden, our lunch was a feast for both the eyes and the taste buds. We indulged in:

Homemade ginger beer and minted cordial

Seasonal vegetable and hummus galettes

Deconstructed chocolate biscuit, lemon curd, and meringue pie

I half-expected the ladies to favor the cordials over the beer, but Bindura’s home-brewed craft blends stole the show. As one spirited member of the group declared, “I’m ripped to the tits!” (Her words, not mine!)

Day 3:   5km

After our last delicious breakfast at Forellenhof, we pack our bags and set off to Theressa’s Roastery, a cozy haven for coffee lovers. Theressa, a no-nonsense dynamo with an entrepreneurial spirit, transitioned from baking bread to crafting exceptional coffee. Her efforts have not gone unnoticed, as she recently clinched Coffee Magazine’s “Community Café Award for 2024.”

Theressa's passion shines as she roasts her own blends, teaching the community what a truly great cup of coffee should taste like. Sampling four or five of her finest Arabica blends was a sensory treat. Energized and buzzing with caffeine, we were ready to dive into the village's history with our next guide, Rita Wiesemann.

Rita is a passionate amateur historian and local expert, eager to share Wakkerstroom’s fascinating past. Known as “The Jewel of Mpumalanga,” Wakkerstroom was established in 1859 as a small pioneer town between Amersfoort and Piet Retief. The village is a treasure trove of South African history, home to three national monuments and the site of some historical battles during the Anglo-Zulu and Anglo-Boer Wars.

Our historical walk began at the Bank Gallery. Rita, who has all the right connections, had the code and keys to let us in. She explained its rich history: “This building began as a branch of Die Nationale Bank van Zuid Afrika in 1893. Over the years, it became Barclays and then First National Bank.” Sadly, the bank closed its doors in 2009, leaving the town with just one FNB ATM.

However, this beautiful space found new life as a “living museum,” thanks to another historian and Rita’s good friend, Nigel Mason. The Bank Gallery now showcases a mix of art, historical artifacts like old bank balance sheets, and even exquisite ivory tea sets. It also serves as a community hub, hosting regular movie afternoons.

Further along this street, we passed a complex of three impressive buildings that once served as business premises and accommodation for Harvey, Greenacres. Some participants in the group were just old enough to reminisce about the luxurious shopping experience at the once-renowned Durban department store. This was the first branch of Harvey Greenacres in the old Transvaal.

From there, we ventured into the historically Indian section of town. Rita shared how, in 1901, a small group of Indian traders and shopkeepers settled in Wakkerstroom, bringing their faith and traditions with them. The highlight of this area is the mosque, a serene space steeped in history.

By sheer luck, Rita secured us an invitation to step inside. We met the imam, Ebrahim who warmly welcomed us. We had a thoughtful conversation about the interpretation of sacred texts and admired the stunning prayer carpet, brought to the mosque in 1973. “This is truly special,” Rita noted, as even she had only been granted access once in her 15 years in Wakkerstroom.

Our route took us past the old school, recently given a facelift, the post office, and the Old Court House—a national monument with a story as quirky as its Ionic architecture. The courthouse has no cornerstone. Why? A heated feud between the powers at be ensured no one could claim ownership of the building.

We ambled up the dusty upper roads, where beautifully restored Victorian-style homes line the streets like something out of a period drama. It’s clear Rita isn’t the only one invested in preserving Wakkerstroom’s history. Wealthy patrons have lovingly bought and restored homes and landmarks, including the original Green Acres Store. Their dedication breathes new life into these relics, ensuring they’ll continue to charm future generations.

Though time didn’t allow us to visit the British and Boer cemetery, we made a quick stop at St. Joseph’s Catholic Church, a striking 1904 structure with a chameleon-like history. Originally the Baptist Union Church, it later became an Apostolic Church, and then a Hervormde one before settling into its Catholic identity.

The church’s story is brought to life by Father Ivano Bertolini, an industrious Italian priest with a knack for cheese-making. His legacy endures at Honeymoon Cheesery, a gem of a shop offering fine (and surprisingly affordable) cheeses. Naturally, we stocked up on gifts.

As brief as our walk was, it was long enough to sense the beating heart of this community. Rita’s stories, the cheerful waves and greetings from locals, and the evident pride in every lovingly restored structure painted a vivid picture of a village united in purpose.

Wakkerstroom isn’t just a destination; it’s a collaboration. Its people—diverse and passionate—are working together to build a future as a haven for birders, history buffs, and eco-conscious travelers. They’re preserving the past while shaping the future, and every step we took showed us how deeply they care.

This slackpacking journey has been more than just an adventure; it’s been a showcase of Wakkerstroom’s flavors, stories, and soul. As we packed our cheese-laden bags and said our goodbyes, I felt comforted knowing that every visit like ours contributes to this dream.